Lookatmyfish.com is not mine!

I was going to buy the domain of lookatmyfish.com, but recently somebody already bought it.

I just want to inform the readers that the site is not mine. The genuine blog of lookatmyfish is here (at blogspot).

Terminalia Catappa Leaves

Ketapang leaves also known as Indian Almond Leaves, Tropical Almond Leaves, Sweet Almond Leaves, Wild Almond Leaves, Sea Almond Leaves, Catappa Leaves, Java Almond Leaves or Ketapang Leaves, are used by tropical fish farm breeders and fish hobbyist to create brackish water or k-water extract to promote healing and breeding for tropical fishes, such as Guppies, Betas, Arowanas, Tetras, Gouramis, Apistos, etc. Usually it is used in after dried and cleaned

Beside creating a natural environment and induces spawning, it also controls or reduces the pH level of water, thus it is also one of the best aquarium water conditioner . They are known to have antibacteria, antifungal, stress relieve and immune boosting properties for all tropical fishes too.

For usage simply rinse dry katapang leaves with tap water before putting them into your aquarium tank. After 1-2 days the leaves will be water-logged and sink. This will leave a strong brown dye that will tan the water slightly (to a clear amber) and provide a very natural stream-bottom look to your aquarium. This dye consists of tanic acid and other organic materials that emulates the natural environment of most tropical fishes. Remove the leaves from the tank after 10 days.

For smaller betta containers, you can also break up the leaf in small 1-2 square inches and drop it in the container and let it seep in the water for at least 3 days to achieve the desirable and 5 days for best result. Water treated with almond leaf help reduce the number of water change in your betta containers from twice a week to once a week.

Alternatively, you can boil the leaves to make blackwater extract and dose when you need. Soaking the leaves in a tank for 10 days will produce a similar result.

Recommended dosage would be 1 leave to 20 liters of water for 10 days, thus 10 leaves to a 200 liter tank. Size of premium leaves ship will be 7" in length and more!

If you are interested ang would like to purchase the leaves you can go to this site (my friend in Riau - Indonesia). :)

strange neon tetras

I'm just wondering why the neon tetras here are not active.

cool wiki site

Hi readers! I just want to tell you that I found a good website called The Aquarium Wiki. Although I think it still needs more content. I think its worth a visit.

Visit The Aquarium Wiki

Video Guide: Starting a Saltwater Aquarium

When searching amazon for aquarium videos, I found this gem. This video is sort of a video guide to start a salt water aquarium. It is made by Carson Passey, who has been a long time aquarium hobbyist and consultant. For years he has helped family, friends, and countless clients achieve wonderful and eye-catching aquariums in homes and offices.

The Aquarium Series DVDs as Carson shows how to keep a beautiful aquarium with out the mistakes and setbacks that so often lead people to quit the hobby. Everybody will enjoy his simple approach to creating and maintaining fun and exciting aquariums.

Find out more about the video.

Starting A Saltwater Aquarium The Easy Way

aquarium dvd

I've been looking around amazon and I found a lot of products which are DVD with aquarium movies (live aquarium shots). If you turn your TV into an aquarium, would it have the same effect (to reduce stress) as a real aquarium?

Just wondering

How To Select an Aquarium

Author: Jimmy Cox

Far too many people start off on the wrong foot by acquiring an aquarium first and deciding what to do with it afterwards. Sometimes this turns out well enough, but it is equally likely to cause a good deal of difficulty and expense.

In selecting your aquarium there are three things you must consider. Where you are going to locate it; what size will be right; and what style you should choose. As there are certain conditions that must be observed in order to have a successful aquarium, we will discuss location, size and style separately.

Location

Naturally you want to look at your fish, so choose a spot that will allow you to view them while you are seated comfortably. You will be watching them for hours.

Keep in mind that the beautiful colors of the fish are due to reflected light from their scales, so place your aquarium in a corner or along an inside wall where you have top or front light exclusively.

Although most tropical fish will withstand moderate variations of temperature it is best to avoid sudden or extreme changes. Remember that air circulation is a principal reason for varying temperature. This means that your aquarium should be located in a quiet place away from heaters or draughts or open windows.

Excessive light should be avoided also. Placing an aquarium in front of a window, or having a bright light shining in your aquarium, will cause the growth of disagreeable algae. Many kinds may form - some adhere to the glass, others form in filaments or strings throughout the aquarium, still others float and color the water green. You will then have the trouble of cleaning out your aquarium.

Size

There will be a natural inclination to begin by buying a small tank to see how it goes, with the possibility of getting a bigger one later if successful. This may appear wise on the face of it, but experience has shown that the smaller sizes of aquaria are much more liable to have things go wrong than the larger ones, and the chances of the initial cost- being wasted or additional cost being continually incurred are greater with small tanks.

So we strongly advise you to get the largest tank you can accommodate or afford. This is simply because a large body of water is not so liable to sudden changes of temperature, and is less likely to be affected by small amounts of harmful matter that may get into the tank; while the added space gives the fish better exercise and a chance to get away from the occasional bully among them.

Style

Today you can purchase an aquarium and style it to fit any decor - from traditional to modern, from handsome hardwood to wrought-iron, from knotty pine to polished chrome or plastic. You will find tanks finished so nicely that no other decoration is necessary - rectangular tanks with smooth or stippled stainless steel frames, modernistic flared styles where the top is wider than the bottom and is supported from the top of the tank, even large glass balls some two feet in diameter. Make your choice. Your own taste will dictate the tank you want to fit your location and size.

Keeping goldfish in small glass bowls is a form of cruelty which should be beneath the dignity of all people who call themselves civilized. Goldfish can be kept very successfully indoors in a properly filtered aquarium. They are ideal pets, being among the most colorful and easily cared-for fish, and do not require special heating. They must not be crowded, however.

Once you have considered the location, size and style of your aquarium, you are ready to buy one, and begin the wonderful hobby of fish-keeping.

Via: Articlesbase.com

Spawning of Bronze Corydoras

A video of corydoras breeding! Corydoras means “little armored catfish.” Cory scales protect them from some predators that snap up little swimming morsels. Their dorsal and pectoral fins also contain the so-called catfish “horns,” another protection against fish gulpers. Most people shorten their name to “cory cats” for convenience.

More on how to breed Corydoras click here.

Decorating Your Tropical Aquarium

Author: Lee Dobins

Having a tropical aquarium can be a fun hobby as well as a great way to add a decorative focal point to any room. Everyone knows that filtration and lighting are key elements to an aquarium, but many people don't realize that the "decorations" in your tank also have an important function in the tank. Aside from making your aquarium look great, decorations can provide important hiding places for your fish.

Gravel comes in many colors and styles and is key to the look of your tank. If you want a colorful tank, you can get gravel in almost any color you want. If you prefer a more natural look, you can get white, off white or even gravel that looks like stone.

Aside from being decorative, gravel is also functional. Gravel plays in important role in the biological filtration of your tank as well as under gravel filtration if you have that type of system. It can also provide an anchor for root systems of live plants so it is important to be sure you choose the right type of gravel. It' best to choose a gravel that is 4 to 6 millimeters, especially if you have an under gravel filter as this will help with water flow. Those neat looking shiny marble type stones you see are not recommended for gravel, but if you really like the look, you can scatter some on top of the gravel.

Rocks add a natural look to your tropical aquarium and provide a place for fish to hide behind. Rocks can also be handy as a surface for some types of aquarium plants to grow on such as Java Moss. You can buy interesting rocks in all shapes and sizes at your aquarium store. If you use rocks from your own yard, make sure you clean them thoroughly and rinse off any soapy restudy before putting them in the tank.

Bogwood is another great addition to a tropical aquarium and can help give your fish lots of places to hide and swim around in. This type of wood can last a long time in your tank and is available in most fish stores. It's probably not a good idea to use wood you find in the woods or your yard as it can have parasites or other things that are not suited for tropical fish.

Live plants are a great way to enhance the natural look of your tropical aquarium while also helping to improve the water quality and providing the fish with a natural cover and spawning area. If you have ever tried to keep live plants and found they wilt and turn pale after a couple of weeks, this is probably because you have not provided them with enough (or the right kinds) of light. Most plants have specific lighting requirements and you may simply need to buy a different bulb for the tank. Once you do that, you will find live plants are easy to grow and will interest to your aquarium.

If you like a more traditional decorative look for your tropical aquarium, you may want to add in some interesting décor such as sunken treasure chests, underwater divers or greek ruins.

Your tropical aquarium can be decorated for any look you want as long as you be careful not to add anything that would be toxic to the tank. Be sure to clean and rinse anything you plan to add so as to not contaminate the tank.

Source: articlesbase.com

Related articles

Tips for treating new fish

How to select an aquarium

Setting up your new aquarium

Very good aquarium for beginners

How to clean a dirty aquarium

Starting a Marine Aquarium - the Very First Considerations

Author: Peter Cunningham

Seeing pictures of a healthy marine fish only or reef aquarium in books or on the internet, or even better, in reality at a public aquarium will cause just about anyone to appreciate the beauty and general fascination of them. Some people will wonder if they could have one, and the thought will shortly disappear. Others, however, will not forget so easily and will want to delve further into the possibility of having their own home aquarium.

If the potential aquarist knows a friend who already has a healthy marine aquarium, then there is a source of advice available already. The friend will already have been through all the research and considerations. Often, however, the potential aquarist will want to find out for him/herself. That is very good, as the aquarium system will be understood thoroughly. Then there may not be a known marine aquarist available, so what is the first move? Dashing to the local shop and buying an aquarium and a few bits of equipment that the shop says is needed is totally incorrect.

The first move is to follow a planning scaffold. This scaffold will be the foundation for all the decisions that need to be made in building the system. There are quite a few decisions along the way and things can get a little confusing, even to someone who is experienced in the freshwater aquarium field. The scaffold will help.

The scaffold has to prepare the budding marine aquarist so that indicative costing on basic equipment provision can be made. Often marine aquarists have equipment laying about. This could have been caused by upgrading because the original equipment was not adequate and needed to be replaced. Money expended that perhaps need not have been.

So, the scaffold then. The following is a list of headings and basic notes. It does not attempt and is not intended to open a comprehensive path from zero to a fantastic fish only or reef tank. What it does do is give a lead to follow on the way towards a successful aquarium. No doubt extra considerations will arise on the way, and that’s as it should be, it means the planning is working. Each stage of planning needs individual consideration, and there will often be more than one decision to make. On the way, research using books and/or the internet is useful or necessary.

Where is it practical to site the aquarium?
Try to choose a location away from direct sunlight, to assist with proper lighting control. There should not be heavy and/or noisy household traffic passing (reasonable traffic is acceptable). There needs to be a reliable power supply available, ie. power outlets. Generally easy access to the aquarium is required. If floors are suspended, consider floor strength - aquariums full of seawater are heavy!

What size aquarium?
The aquarium should not stand on ordinary furniture, but on a properly designed stand. The aquarium may need a hood. These need to be taken into account. Then the available space for the aquarium can be considered.

What type of system?
The system can be fish only or reef. This decision affects other later decisions. Most will opt for a reef.

Sump or no sump?
A sump is a small aquarium that is attached to the main one. It supplies extra water capacity to the system, and allows heaters, sand beds and protein skimmers to be kept away from the display aquarium. The sump can be beside or underneath the display aquarium. A sump on any type system is highly recommended. (If a sump is to be used, the main aquarium will need to be drilled to allow plumbing to take water from the aquarium to the sump. It is then pumped back again.) Note: if a DSB (deep sand bed) or plenum (a raised DSB) is to be employed, the sand bed area should be at least 2/3rds of the base area of the main aquarium. The sand bed should be at least 4″ deep. Consider the cost for the fine sand for the DSB. A DSB in the sump is highly recommended. Leave enough room for a partitioned area for the seawater return pump.

Lighting?
Is the system to be fish only or a reef? If fish only, then two marine fluorescents are sufficient. If reef then:

Hard Corals.
Best lighting is halide, supplemented by actinic fluorescent tubes. T5 fluorescent tubes can be used (marine white and actinic equally mixed) but they do not penetrate the seawater as deeply.

Soft corals.
It is sufficient to use T5 fluorescent lighting (actinic and white mixed). Halide lighting can be used, however, and will not be detrimental (ensure corals exposed are light demanding varieties).

Net seawater capacity of aquarium and sump (if used)? This is easily calculated once the aquarium size and sump have been decided. This gallonage will be excessive as, when rocks and sand are added, it will decrease. Therefore, reduce the amount by 10%. This will still not be correct, but does give a reasonable allowance for displacement.

Seawater circulation?
The seawater in the display aquarium will need to be circulated for the health of the inhabitants whatever they are, but particularly in a reef system. It is recommended that a minimum of two powerheads are used to achieve this. The turnover of seawater in a reef needs to be around ten to twenty times the net capacity of the display aquarium (exclude the sump) per hour, depending on coral occupants.. In fish only systems, it can be less.

Protein skimmer?
A protein skimmer is essential for most systems(*), in particular where there is inexperience. The device is very useful as it helps significantly towards high water quality. The protein skimmer should be sized for around twice the net seawater capacity of the aquarium plus sump (if used). Now that the use of a sump (or not) has been decided, consider whether to use a hang-on or stand alone skimmer.
(* some mud based system designs do not require a skimmer.)

Heating?
The net gallonage of the system is known, so the heating need can be considered. (Note: it is best to purchase two heaters as this is a good safety feature for the aquarium inhabitants. Each heater should be one half of the total heating requirement.) In warm areas where temperatures are always above 80 deg F, the use of a seawater cooler (chiller) will replace heaters.

Return pump?
This only applies if using a sump. Seawater, once it has flowed to the sump, needs to be returned to the main aquarium. A pump is required for this. As a guide, the flow through the sump should be two or three times the net capacity of the system per hour. When considering the pump, remember to factor in the lift, that is the height from the pump level to the highest point that the returning seawater reaches before it enters the main aquarium.

‘Live’ rock.
This is used for filtration purposes (it is excellent for this) and for the construction of the reef. It can also be used in a fish only system. Allow 1½ lbs for each gallon that is in the entire system. There are other filtration methods, but ‘live’ rock coupled with a DSB in a sump is highly recommended.

Reverse osmosis (R/O) unit?
The R/O unit is a tap water filtration device that removes nearly all (around 95 to 98%) unwanted contaminants. Therefore the seawater mix is at its best from the start. It is highly recommended that R/O water is always used, including the first fill of the aquarium. R/O units come in different gallons per day outputs. Remember that usually the aquarium is filled completely only once. The normal routine water change amount is 10% of the net system gallonage weekly.

Dry salt mix?
There are several makes on the market. If keeping a reef system, obtain one that is ‘designed’ for reefs, as additional attention has been given to calcium content etc. Fish only systems can use ‘standard’ mixes or as described above.

Make a list.
As each item is gone through, find out and write down the likely cost. If it is electrical, also write down the wattage (W).

The evidence. When all items are priced, add them up. This represents a general guideline to the cost of setting up. If electrical, add up the wattage. Divide the total wattage by 1000, this will give kilowatts. The cost of electricity per kilowatt will be known. Multiply the number of kilowatts, including any fraction, by the cost per kilowatt, this is the approximate electrical running cost of the system per day. To get weekly, multiply by seven. Monthly, multiply by four. Etc. (Note: lights can be considered as being on 50% of the day. Heaters/coolers will not be on all the time, but it is difficult to determine a guideline percentage.)

OK. The list is there and it indicates the guideline aquarium equipment cost and electrical running cost of the system. These will not be completely accurate but near enough to either dissuade the desire to have an aquarium or to go ahead. There are other costs, of course. For example, no account has been taken of the fish and/or corals that are to inhabit the aquarium. Then additional equipment, often considered later, might be obtained, such as a calcium reactor, a de-nitrator, or a canister filter etc. Maybe coarse coral sand, ½ to 1″ deep, will be used as a decoration in the display aquarium.

Nevertheless, the scaffold will have achieved its purpose, which is to generally guide the new aquarist down a path that cuts its way through what can be a confusing beginning.

After the scaffold, there is still plenty to be done. Many answers can be found in the listed articles on this site (http://www.aquaristsonline.com).

Appropriate articles can be worked through one by one. Any remaining questions can go on the forum. The internet is an excellent resource for knowledge. Typing in a name, eg, marine aquarium lighting etc, into a search engine should produce a good response. Then, of course, there are books. Nothing like an hour of bedtime reading.

Source: articlesbase.com
Pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stronghold/80000384/

Apple Aquarium

This interesting home-made aquarium was named G4 Cubequarium.
Source from here. Guides to make aquarium included!

Breeding Black Ghosts

This posts is the second part of my earlier post :)

There are 2 ways to breed the Black Ghost:

1. By pairing sets: Prepare a set of Black Ghost broodstock (3 male and 4 female) in an aquarium of 100 x 50 x 40 cm.

2. By massal breeding: Black Ghost could be bred in a pond or fiber glass container (2.5 x 1.5 x 0.5 m). Prepare broodstock preferably of 8 males and 12 females. The pH of the water should be maintained at 6.6 but it will be ok at a range of 6-7.

Things needed in breeding!

Black ghosts love to hide, and hiding spots are indeed needed in the process, this is according to the behaviour of this fish which prefers being in the dark. For the hiding places you could use various objects such as tiles, bricks, pipes. Size of the objects should consider to the size of the broodstock.

The next important thing we need is a media for eggs to stick on. In Indonesia we use pakis or ijuk. I am really sorry but I cannot find the meaning in English but its basically an organic material derived from plants (Sorry but I'll have to search for this). Basically the media is dark coloured, porous and consist of fibers. If this is not available, maybe something similar could be used. Because this material floats in water, then it should be arranged and try to put some weight over it.

Broodstock nutrition is an important factor. Bloodworms and mosquito larva are good examples for stimulating the ripening of the gonads. Hinder the use of tubifex worm because the fat content is relatively higher.

Water quality must be maintained therefore water must be refreshed.

Usually the black ghosts breed in night, and eggs could be seen sticking on to the media. Therefore the media should be removed from the breeding tank if in the eggs are present.

Eggs are placed in a separate tank until hatching. If its possible, apply treatments to disinfect eggs or dilute antibiotics to hinder pathogens to the eggs.

Hygiene is needed in all the process above.

Breeding Blackghosts (Apteronotus albifrons)

Author Roffi Grandiosa


The black ghost knifefish, Apteronotus albifrons, is a tropical fish belonging to the ghost knifefish family (Apteronotidae). They originate in South America in the Amazon Basin in Peru and from Venezuela through Paraguay in the Paraná Rivers. The fish is all black except for two white rings on its tail. It moves mainly by undulating a long fin on its underside. It will grow to a maximum length of 20 inches (50 centimeters).

The fish is has an ellegant style of swimming, with its elongated anal fin which starts from the pectoral fin. The peculiar look of this fish is quite dazzling, and the calm behaviour inside the aquarium, makes this fish a must to buy.

I have an experience breeding them and they are very easy to breed. In order to breed you must have a broodstock of 1,5 year old fish with a length of 7-8 inch (20-30 cm). A healthy broodstock should be active, not injured and have a fresh colour (not dull). Now you must differentiate the male and the female, females of blackghosts has a short jaw, a little bit fatter and the size is relatively bigger but shorter than the male fish. The male has a longer jaw with the much longer, skinny and straight body.

To be continued in the next post!

here is a video of a blackghost... really a playful fish!

Planning a Meaningful Aquarium Trip for your Kids

Author: kidslovevacations

Visiting the aquarium is definitely one of the most enriching experience for your kids. Capturing their hearts are highly interactive galleries with touch tanks, video presentations, wildlife tours and diving with the sharks, just to name a few. Bring your kids to the aquarium and learn about aquatic life through exploration and discovery and bring back fond memories of the aquarium.

1. Before visiting the aquarium, get your kids to visit the homepage of the aquarium. Sometimes, the aquarium may feature on-line activities or printables for kids. You may also get a chance to view the animals right at home through the many web cams facilities provided by the aquarium.


2. Find out the history of the aquarium, its mission, and its future tasks. Learn about the aquarium's adoption program


3. Print out aquarium e-newsletters, if any


4. Print out the pictures of the amazing underwater animals from the homepage and get your kids to identify them at the aquarium


5. Check the calendar of events of the aquarium. Aquariums are likely to have some daily events and seasonal events. Do not miss their training sessions where you can watch aquarists feed and train the sea animals


6. Find out the programs offer by the aquarium. Some aquariums allow you to feed the animals at allocated times.


7. Occasionally, aquariums do offer special programs such as swim with the dolphins or sharks. Such programs allow participants to get close to the mammals and learn about their behavior


8. Bring along drawing papers and encourage your kids to draw the sea animals.


9. Take your kids for an animal presentation, where you can see the natural behaviours of the underwater animals.


10. Bring your camera to capture shots of animal movements.


11. Encourage your kids to make a scrapbook of the aquarium trip.


12. Pick up any worksheets for kids. Or make worksheets yourself. Join the crafts sessions at the aquarium.


13. Compare aquariums ! Every aquarium is different. Get your kids to find out their differences and similarities.


14. Learn about 'Seafood Watch'. Some aquariums have this special program which provides regional seafood guides and teaches you how seafood can affect your health.
    Have a nice trip to the aquarium !

Source: articlesbase.com

Apistogramma: the Dwarf Cichlid

Written by Auke Veenstra

The real apistogramma's come from southern America, they all have the same characteristics, like a complex breeding behavior, as their large relatives, only their size is different. Besides the apistogramma group there are also some relatively popular dwarf cichlids from Africa, like the Pelvicachromis group. From this group the most widespread cichlid is the Pelvicachromis pulcher, also known as the Kribensis or Purple cichlid.

Generally the cichlids from the apistogramma group are more fragile and harder to maintain, and breed, for a longer period of time. In my opinion apistogramma's are not real beginner species. They are more likely to get diseases if not all the environmental variables are properly taken care of. They need soft and acidic water with a low pH value, a pH of 5.5 to 6 is preferable. They hardly eat dry foods, best is to feed them live foods or frozen food, like bloodworms, brine shrimp and mosquito larvae. Apistogramma species can be kept in a large tropical community aquarium, but be sure the other fish are not too small, they can defend their territory very fiercely, and can be quite aggressive when they are breeding. In a larger aquarium you could combine two apistogramma variants together, maybe supplemented with a small group of other fish, like some livebearers or betta's. They also can be kept together with discus or angel fish.

The cichlids from the Pelvicachromis group are much more tolerant when it comes to water values and feeding, I do consider these cichlids a good beginner species. They are hardened, beautiful colored and eat almost anything. The Pelvicachromis pulcher is maybe one of the most easy to breed cichlids as well. If you have an adult couple they will reproduce, in a community tank, a special species tank or in a pond, some people like to breed them in their pond during summer. Actually some of the biggest and nicest colored Pelvicachromis pulcher were pond bred and raised. The only thing to keep in mind with these cichlids is that they are capable of redesigning your aquarium, they can make huge holes and are real little bulldozers. So if you have, or want to setup, a subtile planted tank, don't add a couple of Pelvicachromis to your aquarium.

The last dwarf cichlid I want to mention is the Microgeophagus ramirezi, or Ram cichlid. Their behavior and care are roughly the same as the apistogramma's but they are more tolerant when it comes to water values, and in my experience they are easier to keep in good condition. Unlike the apistos they have to be kept as a couple, not a harem but that's the only breeding experience I have. I have tried several couples, have a couple in a breeding tank right now, but I have never even had a clutch of eggs. I know from other breeders that they are kind of hard to get going, but if they do they never stop.

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

Image of Microgeophagus ramirezi from Wikipedia

Buy Fish Safely Online

Recently selling fish online and shipping them to the customer has become common. It has become an alternative to traditional pet shopping. Risks are always present when purchasing online, In this article, I would like to explain several safe guides to buying fish online.

In buying fish online you must think several improtant things such as Will the fish arrive alive and healthy? What happens if they are lost, or arrive dead or dying? All of these questions are important to guarantee your purchase.

If you want to order live fish online, these are the important thing to notice:

• Ask if there is guarantee - A number of online suppliers offer 'arrive alive' provisions. If there is no guarantee it will be a big risk
• Find an expert in the field - Companies that specialize in shipping live fish directly to customers do a better job of packing the fish, and expediting the shipment. read also reviews from other people if there is any and find out as many information as you can.
• Go to the airport - If you live near a major airport, consider opting to pick up the package there. The cost will often be less, and there will be no risk of the fish sitting in a delivery truck for a long period of time.
• Safe Buying - You have to be very cautious in buying just like any other purchasing activity. If you do fill out an online form, make sure it is a secure one. Buying fish at a suspicious site is not recommended
• Considering the weather - Fish are usually shipped in a cargo bay that is neither heated or cooled, so you better check out the weather forecast to know whether is safe or not at that particular time.
  

Purchasing fish and plants online are recommended if you know who you trust and you know what risks your are facing.

goldfish spawning

Good video of a pair of Ranchu goldfish spawning in an aquarium.

Setting Up Your New Aquarium

Nick Bulka

If you have done the proper planning for your new aquarium, you've already purchased, or otherwise acquired, everything you need to set it up, and have prepared a location in your home where your family and guests can get the most enjoyment from it. If you haven't, you should do your research and planning, and then go out and get your equipment. Do not get your fish yet. Wait until your tank is set up and running correctly. If something goes wrong, you don't want to have to worry about where your fish will live while you deal with the problem.

Okay, let's get started. Whether you have a new or used tank, you should clean it thoroughly. Avoid soap and chemical cleaners, as they can leave a residue that could make your fish sick or even kill them. Use clean water and a sponge or brush manufactured specifically for aquarium use. Fill the tank and check for leaks. It's much easier to deal with a leak now than after you've installed everything. Once you've determined that the tank is okay, drain it and let it dry.

Place your stand in the location you have selected. Make sure it is stable, sturdy, and level. It's important that it be level, otherwise you could end up with a leaking or broken tank. Remember that you should locate the aquarium away from direct sunlight to avoid excess algae growth.

If you are using an under-gravel filter, rinse it, place it in the bottom of the tank, and connect the air hoses according to the instructions that you got with the filter. If you are using a different type of filter, skip to the next step.

If you have purchased a background, apply it to the outside of the tank now. Take your gravel, and wash it in a bucket. Remember the implications of commercial cleaners. Use clean water only. Drain the bucket when the gravel cleaning is complete.

Place the gravel in the bottom of the tank, approximately two inches deep. Spread it so that it is slightly deeper at the back of the tank, and slopes very gradually towards the front.

Assemble and set up your filter (unless you have already installed an under-gravel filter). Make sure to consult the manufacturer's instructions for any pre-installation requirements. If you are using an air pump, install that now as well. If you are using a hanging heater, hang it near the
back of the tank, but in a place where it is easily accessible. If you have a submersible heater, install it in the tank according to the manufacturer's instructions. Do not plug anything in yet. Attach or hang your thermometer, depending on which type you have.

Now it's time to add the water. Take a clean dinner plate, and place it upside-down in the center of the tank. Fill a bucket with water, and carefully pour the water onto the top of the plate, thereby preventing the gravel from being disturbed. Fill the tank almost to the top.

An aquarium should look as natural as possible, both because it is more pleasing to the human eye, and because the behavior of the fish will be closer to what it would be in their natural habitat. Therefore, you should install some decorations in your aquarium, and now is the time to do that. Pet supply stores and fish stores stock a wide array of aquarium decorations. You should be sure to include plants, whether live or imitation. Live plants will give off oxygen into the water, but will also require some extra care, and will need to be removed if they die. For a beginner, realistic looking plastic plants are a good choice. Place the largest plants at the back of the tank, and the smaller ones at the front.

Place the hood and lights on top of the aquarium, and plug everything in. You should make sure that all electrical cords are positioned in such a way to have a "drip loop", so that if water happens to run down on them, it drips onto the floor rather than into the electrical outlet.

Okay, we're ready to perform a test. Make sure filters that need to be filled with water have been filled, and turn on the filters and/or air pumps. Verify that they are working correctly, and that the water is flowing at the rate expected. Turn on the lights, and make sure they are working. If the water is a little cloudy, don't worry, it will soon clear. Adjust your thermometer according to the breeds of fish you are planning to keep. Your fish store can supply this information if you can't find it elsewhere. Most freshwater tropical fish like a water temperature in the 75-80F range.

Assuming that no problems are found, you can let your equipment run. I know you're anxious, but don't run out and get fish yet. Your aquarium should run for about a week before you add any fish. Leave the lights on for about half the day during this period.

Article Source:
http://www.articlesbase.com/autos-articles/setting-up-your-new-aquarium-78080.html

Photo Source:
http://flickr.com/photos/stewickie/309069001/

want to hunt wild bettas in Indonesia?

A close friend of mine (Hergun), had already run a business of selling wild bettas from Indonesia (based at Sumatra Island). Now he offers a tourism in ornamental fish. Anyone interested to visit Indonesia and eager to know how wild betta live in their natural habitat?

You can contact my friend Hergun at his website (hergunfish.awardspace.com). He already successfully guided some guests from Japan.

It will be a good opportunity for people to experience closer the natural landscape of Indonesia.

Probably I'll plan do the same thing in the future. Its really a good idea. Any suggestions?

Basic Aquarium Disease Prevention

Author: Carl Strohmeyer

I have kept up many aquariums (marine and freshwater) during my years of aquarium maintenance. It was more of a challenge than my personal aquariums as many of customers overfed or did not tell me fish were sick until it was too late. That is why prevention is the best remedy. Now the basic information you need to know are listed below:

1. Cleanliness; regular quality water changes are extremely important. By quality I mean to not over clean the water by taking fish out and washing the gravel. You want to use a gravel vacuum and do partial water changes that disrupt the fish as little as possible. The purpose of this is to remove organic debris before it can fully go through the Nitrogen cycle, eventually increasing your Nitrates and lowering your ph. You also want to de-chlorinate the water so as to not stress out the fish or environment. There are many good products for this: Novaqua, Start Right, Stress Coat, just to name a few.


2. Good filtration. I recommend two filters for redundancy, and I never totally throw out all media, rather I rinse part of the filter media in used aquarium water so as to preserve beneficial (aerobic) bacteria for proper biological filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal). Sponge Pre filters are a great addition to HOB filters in particular, they improve bio filtration, especially during filter media changes.


3. Use ultra violet sterilization. UV sterilizers prevent many bacterial, fungal, and protozoa diseases. In addition they help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of the water and in so doing, water clarity.


4. Do not overfeed! Use quality, aquatic based foods, not foods high in cereal, beef proteins and fats, and soy proteins.


5. Watch water chemistry, such PH, ammonia (0), nitrites (0), nitrates (below 30 ppm), hardness, KH (80 ppm or higher), ECT. Note that ammonia is more toxic at a higher pH! A KH above 80 ppm provides the needed calcium for proper osmotic processes and healing from infections and wounds. High ammonia and nitrite levels make fish extremely susceptible to infection and will eventually kill the fish outright.Prolonged nitrate levels above 80ppm will stunt fish growth and lower fish immunity.


6. When you do treat for disease, do not over medicate or under medicate, then change water. Medicated wonder shells work well for ich and are buffered, which makes one of the active ingredients; malachite green, safer (malachite green is more toxic at lower ph). There are many other excellent treatments such as Pimafix (a great Natural remedy for fungus and flexibacter.


7. When you purchase fish; First make sure all the fish in the aquarium are healthy (if the fish store has a centralized system [which I do not recommend], check ALL the aquariums). Second, float your fish in the bag for 30-60 minutes for temperature and osmotic stabilization, then open the bag and SLOWLY add your aquarium water to the bag. Third, dispose of the water in the bag to avoid contamination. Fourth, add a shock preventative like NovAqua, Start Right, ECT.

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/basic-aquarium-disease-prevention-73404.html

Photo taken from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/absolutwade/264744341/

discus couple

When it comes to spawning, probably the discus (Symphysodon spp.) are the most romantic and caring species. This is because the characteristic of Symphysodon species are their care for the larvae. As for most cichlids, brood care is highly developed with both the parents caring for the young. Additionally, adult discus produce a secretion through their skin, off which the larvae live during their first few days.

You gotta love them!

Cichlids in your aquarium!

Cichlid are always great for aquariums. Take a look at this video! Really awesome collection of malawi cichlids.

There are various species of cichlids you can choose. I think these fish are good for beginners since they are tougher compared to other fishes. If you are really serious about raising cichlids why not prepare yourself with some good books about cichlids.

very good aquarium for beginners!

Introducing the Marineland Eclipse System 12 Aquarium Kit !

As I said in the title, this aquarium is very good for beginners. But first, before purchasing the aquarium, you will have to know what kind of fish you will put in the aquarium.

With the bio-wheel that comes with this tank your only work is to occasionally replace the "physical filter" and do a partial water change. That's it! The tank also comes with a beautiful light that'll really make your fish shine.

It will be better if you also prepare gravel and plants (plastic preffered for beginners).When you add your first fish, start out with just a few small fish to get the bio-wheel going. Anyway, the product manual is included in this product (and should contain the information you need).

Bettas: an exotic experience for your freshwater aquarium

Author: Lee Dobins

If you compare the difference between the salt water or marine fish and freshwater fish, you know that the fish for freshwater aquariums can be a bit dull and boring compared to salt water fish. However, there is one fish for freshwater fish tanks that is so beautiful and exotic it can rival any of the marine fish.

This fish is the Betta or Japanese fighting fish. You've probably seen them sitting In tiny round bowls at your pet store. These are the beautifully colored fish with long flowing fins that come in a range of red, purple's and aqua's.

These fish exhibit a grace and beauty that compares to none other and you might just one of the lucky fish tank with a dozen of them. However, this wouldn't be very good idea since male Bettas – the ones with the long fins – a very territorial and will fight to the death.

When buying Bettas for your fish tank you need to make sure that you only have one male aquarium. You can have more than one female, but the females are not as beautiful as the males having much shorter fins and in fact, the females can also fight but are not as aggressive as the males.

In addition to being beautiful, the Betta is also one of the few freshwater fish that can survive in water that has little in as they can actually take the oxygen from the air itself. But just because they can survive in a little tiny bowls doesn't mean you should subject him to such a boring life. just like with any fish the bigger the aquarium and the better the water quality and healthier you fish will be.

If you do decide to keep your Betta are in a small fish bowl you'll need to spend a lot of time doing water changes in making sure that the water quality is good enough for your fish to size. The water in a small bowl will soon become toxic due to decaying food and wastes and there is not enough room in a small bowl for enough bacteria to build up for sufficient biological filtration. You should probably change out half the water to three times a week in order to keep the ammonia nitrate levels at bay. Also be sure that your fish gets the appropriate heat and light necessary to survive.

Feeding your Betta the appropriate food will help keep him healthy and colorful. Bettas are carnivores and will need a meat-based feed food. They like food such as prime time, freeze dried blood worms and you can also buy food specifically formulated for the Betta fish. If you're feeding him frozen brine shrimp, thaw it out so that your Betta can digest it properly. Don't overfeed refresh, simply given up what he can eat in a minute or two as you want to avoid having food rot on the bottom of your tank which will reduce the water quality.

Bettas like a water temperature that is around 78 to 80°F and it is good to keep this temperature consistent. keep your tank away from windows so that algae does not build up and also keep it out of drafts or sunlight is the sunlight can heat the water up to much. Adding live plants suitable or aquarium can help filter the water and keep the quality at peak levels.

Article source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/bettas--the-most-exotic-fish-for-freshwater-aquariums-71288.html

Photo from http://flickr.com/photos/scottkinmartin/484795442/

What is it with cats and fish (in aquariums)?

vicious piranhas attacks mouse

This is cool and cruel.. what do you expect to feed piranhas in an aquarium?

Aquarium live screensavers!

You've seen aquarium programs before, but you've never seen anything like this screensaver. The marine life is so vibrant you won't believe your eyes. These fish are actual 3D models, not flat images dragged across the screen. The fish bend, turn, and swim just like real fish.

The Marine Aquarium 2.0. is really cool program, very entertaining for the whole family! You can download the trial program here! (tested free of virus, spyware & freeware). The program is compatible for Windows 98, ME, XP, Vista.

Illustration/pic. taken from here -> http://www.serenescreen.com/images/product/time/screenshotsm.jpg

Aquarium Ornaments

Author: Sveinung

You would perhaps be tempted to think that upon the purchase of a brand spanking new aquarium system that your work is done. And you would not be far amiss in thinking so, for almost anyone would be hard pressed to figure out how there could be any possible way to improve on such a wondrous spectacle.

Depending on the type of fish that you choose to have in your aquarium, you will more than likely be inundated with a staggering display of all nature’s colors, swimming away majestically. Whether you decide to go for a fresh water aquarium or a saltwater aquarium, many multi hued sea creatures are available for either type and your final decision can be made largely based on your personal preference. In other words, no matter which one you decide on eventually, a breathtaking water spectacle is in the cards for you.

It is inherent in human nature however that we must constantly strive to improve upon every aspect of our daily lives and the enhancement of your aquarium system is not at all that different. By this token, you may find yourself therefore shopping around for means to improve on what is already a good thing. Chances are good that you may eventually turn your attention to any number of the aquarium ornaments or aquarium decorations that adorn the shelves of your local pet supply store. Or you may even have already begun to peruse various pet supply websites in the hopes of finding just that perfect…something that will add the master finishing touch to your underwater display. Some of the more popular ornaments available are the Tropical Clam ornament and the Half-Shipwreck decoration.

They are popular for precisely the reason that they serve to considerably liven up what would otherwise be a fairly humdrum or run of the mill aquarium. Not to worry; these two products are totally safe for aquarium use and your precious watery friends will surely have hours of fun romping through them and chasing each other in and out of their pathways. In fact given the presence of such delightful ornaments, your fish may well be in their own natural habitat and I sincerely doubt that any of them will miss home with these toys adorning their tanks! The themes of these decorations are particularly apt given their intended usage and will add that needed little bit of whimsy in your aquatic creations.

These ornaments are not only attractive to the eye, they are also easy on the wallet. Costing only a few dollars each, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t have them in your very own aquarium right now and even purchasing several of them! In fact, with playthings such as these, even I would be tempted to live in an aquarium…if I wasn’t so attached to my land lubbing ways that is!

http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/aquarium-ornaments-168541.html

Fish Humor

taken from http://www.funny-games.biz/

Anglefish spawning on slate rock

Anglefish (Pterophyllum) are intimate couples when it comes to spawning.

an oscar couple spawning

Is spawning the same as having sex?

Betta spawning: close up!

Betta spawning is always great to see.

How to Clean a Dirty Aquarium

by Ellie Schneider

A fresh water fish tank requires about 30 minutes to an hour of work a week depending on the size of the tank.What you will need:

1. You will need a clean 5 gallon bucket that has never had chemicals or soap inside of it.
2. A hose or gravel cleaner
3. A bag of natural or synthetic sea salt.

I have split the work into two parts the tank which needs to be cleaned ever week on the same day and the filters which can be cleaned every 2 or 3 weeks.The very first thing you have to do before you start cleaning your fish tank is to unplug your tanks heater if you have one.

The heater can not be allowed to be removed from the water while it is hot so make sure to leave it unplugged at least 20 minutes before attempting to remove it. The water help cool the glass on the heater if removed it could crack, or the glass could totally shatter.

You should also remember to never stick your hand inside of any fish tank before making sure the heater is not only off but unplugged from the wall. A small crack in the heater could be more then enough to cause a shock to you that can be fatal. After the heater has had time to cool, you can safely remove the heater from the tank or it the heater is submersible you can just push it down to the bottom of the tank.

Now take any decorations you may have placed in the tank, so all you have are the small gravel at the bottom, this will allow you to get any dirt that those decorations may have been covering up. Now if you do not have a gravel cleaner you are going to have to roll up your sleeves and get your hands wet. You will need to stir up the gravel to get the dirt that has settled between the gravel into the water, and start removing the water into the bucket with the hose. Do not throw out the water you will still need it to clean the filters.

If you have a gravel cleaner, push the plastic tube into the gravel until it hits the bottom of the tank, then start a siphon into the bucket, every second or 2 move the gravel cleaner over an inch or 2 and repeat this process until either you have removed 15 percent of the tanks water of you have cleaned all the gravel. Now at this point you can clean the Aquariums filters. The insides of the filters are used to grow bacteria, that help break down the nitrites and nitrates that are in the water from fish waste and uneaten food.

To make sure we don’t kill all these Aquarium friendly bacteria, we clean the filter materials and sponges in the dirty water that I also full of the bacteria. Take everything out of the filters and rinse them of in the bucket of dirty Aquarium water, then give the sponge a couple of squeezes in the bucket and reassemble the filters, and put them back on the tank. Now before adding the water, sea salt must be added to the tank.

All water has some amount of salt in it and to replicate the natural habitat of the fish there must be salt in your tank as well. Add approximately 1 cup of sea salt for every 50 gallons of water.Now you can add water to the tank, but you must make sure the water is the within a degree or two of the temperature of the water in the tank. A drastic change in the tanks temperature suddenly can throw the fish into shock and kill them or weaken their immunity and help give them a fish disease.

I recommend filling the bucket with hot water and checking it regularly till it is the same as the tanks temperature, then slowly add the water to the tank, start the filters and the heater. Cleaning the filters only needs to be done once or twice a month, but the water in the tank must be cleaned on the same day every week.

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com/

Related articles
Decorating your tropical aquarium
How to select an aquarium
Setting up your new aquarium
Very good aquarium for beginners
Tips for treating new fish

Using a UV Sterilizer in a Reef Tank

By: Peter Cunningham

Actually, a UV sterilizer can be used in either a salt water reef aquarium or a salt water fish only aquarium.

What is the sterilizer? It is a container, usually in a near tube shape, in which an ultraviolet (UV) fluorescent lamp is contained. The lamp emits light at around 254 nm. The lamp is constructed of quartz glass to prevent the UV being absorbed as it would be if ordinary glass were used. The lamp is in a container of its own to shield it from the water, and then there is an outer container. The space between the containers is very small allowing full penetration of UV light. The water is passed between the outer and inner containers by a pump or power head.

The UV light is fully shielded from the aquarist as, of course, it could be damaging.
It is important that the unit used is recommended by the manufacturer for the size of aquarium it is to be fitted to, and very important that the pump used to circulate the water through the unit is of the correct size, again as recommended by the manufacturer. However, an aquarium cannot be “over UV’d” as the UV light is completely contained.

What does a UV sterilizer in a reef tank do? The major job of the unit as far as aquarists are concerned is the destruction of minute free swimming parasites and other disease causing organisms. This occurs when these organisms pass with the water through the UV light. They are either killed outright, or are severely damaged and no longer a threat. (This is the reason it is important to have the correct sized pump. The organism must be in the UV area for a sufficient time.) The threat of disease is reduced, but not entirely removed. Even with a sterilizer in use, the aquarist must continue to be on guard for any sign of disease.

A further very important point is that the UV lamp has a limited life. In accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, the lamp must be renewed periodically. This keeps the UV unit at full efficiency. The renewal point will occur more quickly if the unit is run continuously, but continuous running is not necessary in normal circumstances. However, it is probable that most aquarists do run continuously. When feeding small live food that could be drawn into the UV unit turn the unit off.

The UV unit must be run continuously if a disease is suspected or confirmed. Many disease organisms have a free swimming stage and it is at this point that they are vulnerable.

It can be seen that the UV unit is of most potential benefit on a reef aquarium, or a fish only with live rock aquarium, as copper medication should not be used in these aquariums. A fish only aquarium can also benefit, but if a severe disease outbreak occurs medications can normally be used.

It is likely that a disease outbreak will not occur in an aquarium if all the proper procedures for introducing new corals and fish are used, and proper maintenance is adhered to. It is for the individual aquarist to decide if a UV unit is worthwhile.

Just remember that a UV unit is not an excuse for poor husbandry or cutting corners!

Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium's for nearly 35 years. Visit their site 'The Salt Water Aquarium' if you are interested in learning how to care for and maintain a salt water aquarium.

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

African Cichlid Aquarium Setup

Keep It Glowing With Aquarium Lighting

by: Low Jeremy
If you have your own aquarium at home, you need to take care of your fishes just like they were family because a bit of carelessness may cause them some trouble. You need to check if there is good aquarium lighting. This is important for aquarium plants and the fishes.

If your aquarium has poor aquarium lighting, your colorful fish may not be seen properly and it will also cause it to fade and turn the shades to other colors. If you want to have good aquarium lighting, you can choose between fluorescent or incandescent light.

If this is your first time to put up an aquarium, trying out the light may be from trial and error because you need to check if the light matches with the environment of your aquarium. Try to see first whether it is too dark or too light, then you can start adjusting the lights.

If you have too much aquarium lighting, it might cause the water to look green. If you have little light, it might cause to inhibit plant growth. You may choose whether you want artificial light or natural light. You can even make a combination to see which does better in giving light to your aquarium.

If you want the best aquarium lighting, you can place the light facing a window in the north. It is a good way to provide light in this manner because indirect lights are being spread. You can add artificial light to it if you want to. If it is daylight, it will be fine to shut the artificial lights off but when the natural light goes out, you need to let light stand in the aquarium for at least 8 hours.

You can also use light colored bulbs for your aquarium lighting. This will give impact to the nice colors of your fishes and the colors may even be enhanced. If you want your aquarium lighting to give a good effect to your aquarium, use light from behind. This will show the best features of your aquarium and the plant growth will stay healthy too.

Start gathering the best light that you wish to put in your aquarium. After setting up a good lighting, you might never take your eyes of your aquarium. A lot of people will surely notice and appreciate your aquarium because of the aquarium lighting that you have installed.

For more information on aquariums, how to maintain, the basics of owning one, please visit http://aquarium.articlekeep.com.

7 Tips for Choosing Aquarium Fish

by Lee Dobins

Buying the right aquarium fish for your tank is key to the success of your aquarium. When selecting fish, you may not simply be able to pick out the fish that catch your eye in the pet store as not all fish can live in the same environment. Additionally not all fish get along with each other so you will have to be careful to choose the types of fish that are compatible.

If all this seems like hard work, don't worry, you will soon become familiar with the types of tropical fish that work well in your tank and even have some favorites that you like to keep.
When choosing fish for your aquarium, here's some tips to keep in mind:

1. Fish appearance. Observe the particular fish you are interested in carefully to make sure he is active and swimming around properly. Make sure his fins are not chewed and he doesn't have any growths or white fuzzy patches.


2. Tank condition. Dealers tanks can have parasites and disease that might not be apparent in your fish right away so you need to observe the other fish in the tank and take a good look at the tank conditions. Is the tank clean? If not that is an indication that the dealer probably doesn't care for the tanks well. Make sure the other fish in the tank are alert and swimming around actively. Avoid buying a fish from a tank that has dead fish floating in it. Even if your fish appears to be healthy, he could already be infected with something that might not show up until days after you get him home. By then it might be too late and you could risk infecting your other fish.


3. Water Conditions. The condition of your water is important as well as the number of fish you already have in the tank. If your water condition is poor then adding more fish will just make things worse and endanger the health of all the fish in the tank. Also, you should be careful not to overload your tank with too many fish as this will cause stress on all the fish as well as cause your water quality to degrade. The general rule of thumb for freshwater tropical fish tanks is 1 inch of fish per gallon of water. If you add too many, you will have to spend more time changing the water and will need really good filtration in order to keep your tank healthy.


4. Water Temperature. Not all tropical fish like the same temperature water. While most will do well with temps in the mid 70's some do better in cooler waters while others like it on the warm side.


5. Fish size. Before you buy a new fish you might want to find out how big he can be expected to eventually grow. Since your tank can support about 1 inch of fish per gallon, you wouldn't want to put a fish that might grow to 5 inches in your 5 gallon tank or he might be the only one you can have!


6. The type of fish. Is your new fish aggressive or does he play well with others? Is he OK being the only one of his kind in the tank or will he do better in a school. Make sure you only put fish that will get along in the tank or the more aggressive fish will pick on the others. Also, some fish are territorial and you should only keep one per tank.


7. The food. Find out what type of food your new fish likes to eat. Most eat flakes, but some like freeze dried worms or other types of food. When you bring home your new fish be sure to also take home some of his favorite dinner.

Article from http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/7-tips-for-choosing-aquarium-fish-37969.html

Photo from: http://flickr.com/photos/phrakt/301143318/

How to take care of yor little angels?

Author:

Tarja Anchor

Angelfish have been popular for a long time, and new strains are still being developed. Wild-caught fish are also widely available. Angelfish are cichlids, which mean they can be aggressive, territorial, and predatory. They also have some demanding requirements for space, water conditions, and diet.

Angelfish require space to establish and hold a territory. You can keep one Angelfish in a relatively small aquarium, but they will do a lot better in a group of five or more in bigger tank. You should provide 10 gallons of water for one adult Angelfish. If you consider keeping Angelfish, locally bred fish are a good choice. They are usually already acclimated to your tap water, and probably are available at your local fish store.

There is a growing number of "basement breeders" all over the country, who bring their fish to the store for sale. This will save you a lot of time and money if you are just starting with Angelfish. Wild-caught fish are harder to get acclimated to different water conditions. It has to happen very slowly, and at first the conditions should be close to their natural water conditions; slightly acidic, and relatively soft. Water temperature must be maintained between 78 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit for all Angelfish regardless of their origin. They don't like to get "chilled"; they will suffer and get sick in too cool water.

There are no special requirements for filters, as long as the water stays clean. The only thing to think about is that the water is not flowing too fast. Angelfish are not happy where salmon would be. Thirty percent of the water should be changed at least every two weeks. Also vacuum the bottom to keep it clean and aerated, since Angelfish will not mix the substrate. One option is to keep some bottom dwellers with Angels.

Angelfish generally accept all kinds of food. They are omnivorous, which means they eat meat and plant food. You can offer pellets, flakes, frozen blood worms and brine shrimp, and so on. Avoid too fatty meat to protect the liver from getting cirrhosis. It is a good habit to feed Angelfish two or three times a day a with small amount instead of single large meal. This will prevent digestive problems.

Angelfish can be good community fish. They do need to have appropriate tank mates for everything to work out. Some small fish may end up on the menu, like Neon Tetras, and slower fish may have difficulty to get enough food. Avoid very small fish and choose tank mates with similar temperament, and water condition requirements. Some Angel fish strains have very long fins and tails, which some other species keep nipping.

If you are interested in breeding Angelfish, you will need a second tank to separate the breeding pair from the rest of the community, or to rear the fry. It would be best to get at least 3 to 5 Angels to be sure you get one female and one male. Sometimes you may find a pair of adults for sale, which have already spawned. Angels will form a pair after courtship display, and will aggressively guard the chosen spawning spot. This is usually some kind of vertical surface, a big leaf or tubing for example. Spawning takes about an hour. Both parents keep fanning the eggs for three days until they hatch. The fry will stay attached to the surface for about five days and then start swimming on their own. By this time the fry has used most of its yolk, and needs to be fed for the first time. You can offer newly hatched brine shrimp. It's wiggling will stimulate the fry to eat better than flake food will, which can be offered crushed.

Parents will take care of the fry, but if any wander away; they will get on the menu of the other fish. This can be prevented by moving the fry to a separate tank. If the fry is well fed and the tank is kept clean, the fry will grow very fast. Then you can start asking from your local fish stores if they would be interested in having your little Angels for sale. Happy fish keeping.

Article source:

http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-take-care-of-your-little-angels-14791.html

Photo taken from:

http://flickr.com/photos/dystopian/201167001/

Java Moss

Author: Allen Jesson

Java moss is a very popular aquarium plant since it will adapt to most conditions and require a minimal amount of maintenance. Its scientific name is Vesicularia dubayana and it comes from the waters of Java, Malaysia and India. It is a so called sleeper moss and can be found in the family Hypnaceae. It forms very small green leaves that rarely grow bigger than 4 millimetres. The leaves grow in pairs on each side of the stem.

Many fish species from all over the world likes to spawn among Java moss plants in the aquarium even when it can not be found in their native habitat. Java moss will also provide fry with an ideal hiding place where they can avoid being eaten by adult fish. Since infusoria appreciate it as a home, really small fry will have access to tiny food that they can feed on until they are large enough to eat bigger food types.

Java moss does not have to be planted in the substrate; you can simply tie it to a piece of aquarium decoration or leave it floating around in the aquarium. A free-floating piece of Java moss can however be sucked into the filter, so most aquarists prefer to attach the moss to something or plant it in the substrate. It can actually do well even above surface as long as the air is moist. It is therefore a great plant for open aquariums and paludariums.

When you attach the Java moss to rock, wood or any other type of aquarium decoration you can for instance use fishing wire. Be careful not to use materials that can pollute the water, e.g. cupper wire. The moss will instantly start growing small roots (so called rhizoids) and try to attach it self to the surface. After a while, the fishing wire is no longer needed since the plant will be secured by the rhizoids.

Java moss is a very fast growing plant, and when you have purchased one plant you can easily use it to create new plants for other parts of the aquarium. Java moss can be propagated by simply splitting the plant and moving one of the parts to another place. The Java moss will often propagate itself in the aquarium since small pieces will fall of the main plant and drift around in the water until they find a new place where they can attach themselves. The Java moss will also form red-brown sporocarps.

Java moss will endure a wide range of different water conditions and temperatures. It is native to warm waters and the preferred temperature range is therefore 64°-86° F (18°-30° C). It will also appreciate a pH between 5.8 and 8.0 but can sometimes adapt to more acidic conditions. Unlike many other tropical plants, Java moss does not require strong light and it will actually do best in low or medium strong light. Algae can be a problem for the Java moss since excessive algae growth on the leaves can harm and even kill the plant.

Article from Articles Base: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/aquatic-plants-java-moss-71692.html

Picture from Visualsamit Flickr page http://flickr.com/photos/visualsamit/668804012/

Also visit aquasamit.blogspot.com for more aquarium and aquascape images and related information and resources