The common brine shrimp (artemia) is in the phylum Arthropoda, class Crustacea. Artemia are closely related to zooplankton like Copepods and Daphnia, which are also used for live food in the aquarium. The artemia life cycle begins by the hatching of dormant cysts which are encased embryos that are metabolically inactive. The cysts can remain dormant for many years as long as they are kept dry. When the cysts are placed back into salt water they are re-hydrated and resume their development. Artemia cysts are best stored in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry environment. The refrigerator is usually best. After 15 to 20 hours at 25 degrees C (77 degrees F) the cyst bursts and the embryo leaves the shell. For the first few hours, the embryo hangs beneath the cyst shell, still enclosed in a hatching membrane. This is called the Umbrella stage, during this stage the nauplius completes its development and emerges as a free swimming nauplii. In the first larval stage, the nauplii is a brownish orange color because of its yolk reserves, newly hatched artemia do not feed because their mouth and anus are not fully developed. Approximately 12 hours after hatch they molt into the second larval stage and they start filter feeding on particles of various microalgae, bacteria, and detritus. The nauplii will grow and progress through 15 molts before reaching adulthood in about 8 days.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
about artemia, an important larvae feed
Posted by Roffi Grandiosa at 2:37 PM 1 comments
Labels: artemia
Friday, February 8, 2008
White Spot Disease and How To Cure Your Fish
The bad experience about fishkeeping is having death of fish due to aquarium disease. For some people the presence of disease is frustrating leading to the sometimes quitting the hobby.
Fish disease has a solution and in many cases could be avoided. A main reason is the presence of parasites (internal and external types). To know whether your fish is infected by parasites is important. You can do observation, 3 times a day to see their behavior and also the physical appearance of the fish. After you detected parasites, you can proceed to a treatment preparation.
Look out for the following White Spot disease behavioral symptoms in your fish.
- Constant lying on the bottom or hanging at the surface.
- Rubbing of the body against rocks
- Gasping at the water surface
- No response to feeding
- General dullness and lethargy
- Hovering in a corner
- Fish swimming with clamps up
The most common of the visible signs is the development of the pin head-size while spots on the body or fins. This ailment is referred to as White Spot disease and is caused by the parasite - Ichthyophthirius multifillis.
This parasite has a free-swimming stage, which attaches itself to the fish. The most common chemical used in treating infected fishes is Methylene Blue. You could buy a one per cent stock solution from a reputable chemist or aquarium shop and apply at 0.8 to 1.0ml per gallon of water. This amount should be added all at once. Repeat after one or two days.
The fishes must remain in this bath until every while spot has disappeared. A water change after treatment is necessary or else prolonged contact with the chemical may affect the fertility of the fish.
Another tip if you are using a side filter with activated charcoal should remove it to prevent the coal from absorbing the Methylene Blue.
Another tip... during treatment you should use artificial aeration with coarse bubbles near the surface, since a dirty bottom would inactivate the medicament by absorption. A better measure is to remove all dirt from the bottom before treatment.
Methylene Blue is harmless to young fish and unlike the general belief, it does not affect plants if used in weaker concentration.
Posted by Roffi Grandiosa at 6:27 PM 12 comments
Labels: fish disease